This is my first attempt to building a biplane. I always had a fascination with WW1 era planes so i picked up a Bulsa USA kit. So here it goes the 1/4 scale sopwith Camel. A little late posting pics but I started end of September 2019 Hoping it will speed up the nasty long cold winter.
Very nice. I so badly want to build a Camel. I'm just not very confident in my woodworking skills. Hobby King's got a 55" model, so I think I will try that as a practice attempt. What covering scheme are you going to use? I want to use Roy Brown's Camel as a model, (see pics) but I wonder about the olive green against the tree line at the field. I've seen a bright red one that looks pretty sharp as well.
Here’s some more pics of the build since I can only post 3 at a time I will try to catch up. The magnetic 36 x 96” building table works great especially for jigging up. The wings were lined up and paralleld with framing squares. I also made use of my laser light to get everything true. Lots of measuring before soldering up the Interplane Struts. The use of 4 threaded rods though the wings to the build table worked great for height adjustment.
And now the issue with the gas tank. Im hoping I did this right as my little box for a 14oz tank is all glued in. I should have asked the professionals first. So here is some pics for any advice. Ive never had gas before At least with a plane.
pushrod look great ,your soldering looks good too ,if the tank is loose in the box glue a balsa stick behind the tank so it cant slide back and pull on your fuel lines, put a small piece of foam between the tank and balsa stick to stop chafing of the tank over time it can rub a hole.your plane is really coming together
Thanks for the linkage pics. I also found a video on YouTube called building a balsa USA camel. The guy has his going straight to a servo mounted to the fire wall. When I tuned the carb around it seams to line up straight.
Will a servo on the firewall be ok. Here is his set up. P.S. The tank is just sitting in there as I’m going to pack it with foam. I should have left more room around it but does it really need it. Some guys seem to strap them in.
My idea here is installing 4-40 rods inside the Sullivan #517 outer tubes. Then using the yellow rods as spacers. Since my rods are not long enough I will have to put in a joint then into threaded 4-40. so I can get the length I need. My theory is that the yellow tube will glide smoothly without seeing it sticking out the side of the fuselage. Any better ideas out there.
Hi Don i have never put a servo on the firewall some people have and seem to be fine i try to keep the radio and servos about 10" away from the engine (this is from the old 72 radio days). The other thing i would consider is the gas,oil,and heat from the engine and it affecting the servo operating right ,
Now your pushrod is that for you elevator and rudder or engine ,do not use a fully threaded rod use rode that has threaded ends .fully threaded rods are weak and will break at the thread root ,they are good for short lengths, 4-40 with threaded ends are best and even then you only want enough thread to make setup and trim adjustments
there is a mod i do to all my engines ,if you look around at other sites many people are doing this .looking at the pictures you will see a fuel tube running from the diaphragm cover plate into the fuselage the other pictures shows how i soldered a small brass tube to the plate over the small hole.The diaphragm cover plate has a small hole the reason the hole is when the diaphragm pulses in and out the air under the cover will moves in and out through the hole too.Now in the cowl air pressure builds up from the prop blast and the incoming air as the plane flies this pressure can be enough to stop the air passing in and out through the diaphragm cover plate hole by attaching a piece tube and running inside the fuselage the carb work properly because there is no pressure build up this lets the carb pump fuel consistently and helps in tuning and reducers deadsticks .Like i said earlier i have done this to all my engines its the first thing i do before the engine sees any fuel This is the same as when you drive down the highway and open a window and the air buffets in the car you get a boof boof noise that's air pressure build up
Yes your right Rick Just thought it would be easier to buy all thread rod but I will track down a short doubled end thread 6”. as for the throttle servo I will try to find a spot somewhere in the plane more.
Now the other thing you might want to keep in mind sometimes you can run into problems by rotating the carburetor "google" ( zenoah problems rotating carb) you might want to keep the carb in its original position .There is a long winded reason for this and i had to deal with this problem myself years ago .if you want my thinking on it let me know
So Don i have never built a Balsa USA kit yet myself how did you find it ,quality, construction ,your impressions .Lots of people reading this ,i am sure there are people who would be interested might show them the enjoyment you are having and get others to build rather then ARF all the time
Although the balsa USA kit is die cut I would much rather had a laser cut one. But the pieces seemed to be cut pretty accurate. The instructions are great and include lots of tips. I will build another maybe the junkers since I believe it Is laser cut. If you take a kit price then multiply by 4 that’s probably What it costs when done. Ps as for the carb rotation as long as the pulse ports Are lined up I think it will be ok.
actually it doesn't have anything to do with the pulse ports lining up it has to do with g forces on the diaphragm valve pin but if you find you have problems remember my suggestions been running gas for 10 years or so from 25cc to 70cc if anyone is having any of these problems these are the common fixes if in doubt google it lots of information
Admin: I am looking for an eighty inch Cub, made by Sig. I saw one at the swap meet in London, but got distracted and it got away from me. I heard someone stole it for a paltry sum of $175.00.
Oct 29, 2019 16:48:21 GMT -5
agn: How do you get the post under " Building Tips"
Nov 2, 2019 23:03:04 GMT -5
agn: OK here goes, Dont't quite understand the process yet!
Nov 3, 2019 13:35:09 GMT -5
agn: The most useful tools I make are sanding bars. I use white pine wood of many sizes, if you have an old saw blade, cut them after gluing sand paper of different grades to the wood.Long ones short ones thin ones etc.
Nov 3, 2019 13:40:10 GMT -5
agn: I also used paint mixing sticks and broken propellers for compound curve sanding.You can use any glue but some need to be weighted to keep the sandpaper to the surface while curing/ drying.
Nov 3, 2019 13:43:13 GMT -5
agn: Also If you have a tube light , 8' is nice you can parallel the light with your work , a wing leading edge, sand and rotate it to check how the shape is working out. Longer blocks work well for this starting with course grain to finer grain sand paper.
Nov 3, 2019 13:46:30 GMT -5
don: Hi AGN go to building tips . Click on that then scroll over and create a thread.
Nov 3, 2019 19:59:06 GMT -5
les: Davis instruments has a selection of weather stations with an option for cellular data upload to the internet. $1500 US , data plan extra.
Nov 21, 2019 12:47:07 GMT -5
RICK: see if this works
Jan 7, 2020 15:55:21 GMT -5